A few kilometers off the coast from Maputo lies Xefina, a tantalizing and enigmatic island best described as a combination of eerie and bizarre. Ruins of an old Portuguese jail and enormous batteries built by the Portuguese to defend Maputo Bay during WW 1 and 2 engulf the Island with an air of history, tragedy, and death… Continue reading “Xefina island, where nature and history play at magic realism”
The world is made up of all types of people: there are train geeks, airplane aficionados, car enthusiasts and boat admirers. I’ve never considered myself any of them. Ok, yes, given the choice I’ll take the train over a plane or car but that’s only because I like traveling slowly – and they are more environmentally friendly – not because trains are special. My point is I’ve never cared much for the method of transport. Instead its always been about the journey and the destination.
That all changed in 2016 when I went from Mozambique Island to a beach near Nacala by Dhow. Whats a Dhow? Dhows are the traditional sailboat of all fishermen and merchants in the Indian Ocean. Its been around for centuries. They are so emblematic of the Indian Ocean that the Dubai opera house is designed to look like one. Continue reading “An ode to dhows”
Having spent the last 6 years in the northern hemisphere I sorely missed spending the holiday season under the sun so when Christmas 2017 approached I treated myself to 12 days in Mozambique. Unfortunately I couldn’t stay longer but of those 12 days I spent a week in Chizavane with my two best friends. Needless to say it was money and time well spent.
And what a setting. OMG. I don’t think the words exist -or maybe I simply don’t have the skill- to describe how sublime it was.
A few facts and photos will have to do.
Chizavane is 250 km from Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. Xai Xai, the nearest town is 40kms away. So yes, its pretty secluded. Continue reading “Chizavane”
People form the north hemisphere have it all wrong regarding Christmas and New Year’s. I mean, ok, Christmas in winter is kind of cool but New year’s? Its horrid! I grew up in Mozambique, where the holidays are in the peak of summer. As kids we would go to a beach days after Christmas and depending on how long the adults were on holidays we’d stay there for a week or two or three. It was always the highlight of my summer holiday. In my late teenage years and early twenties I continued to do the same, only difference is I went with my boyfriend and friends instead of family.
Nothing can quite compare to those days lazying about under the sun. We would often leave “home” early in the morning and only return sometime mid-afternoon when we were hungry. Only to run back outdoors as soon as we’d finished eating. Sometimes the adults would organize an excursion to another beach nearby but mostly we were on our own, free to do as we pleased. Everyday a different adventure.